The Transformation of Tibetan Artists\u27 Identities from 1959-Present Day

The notion of Tibetan art as a preservation of the Shangri-La culture that existed before Chinese occupation is a pervasive ideology among western scholars. Buddhist thangka paintings were and still are an important aspect of Tibetan heritage and sense of identity. This paper, however, focuses on the shifting roles of Tibetan artists from the onset of the Chinese liberation of Tibet in 1959 to present day. The tremendous lack of scholarship on contemporary Tibetan artists, including both those who still live in the Tibetan Autonomous Region and those who have traveled abroad, has served as a catalyst for the research presented in this thesis. The major theme of this paper, which encompasses the shifts in Tibetan artistic identity over the past sixty years, is presented three different sections. The first section explains artistic identity as it was before the Chinese occupation. The second section presents Tibetan art identity as it existed under Communist rule and the Cultural Revolution, and the third section notes the changes in contemporary art identity in regards to the post-Mao era to present day. The change in social and political climates dictates how Tibetans classify and explain their identity and the roles of artists change with both internal and external influences. The Buddhist thangka artists, socialist-realist painters, and contemporary artists, all define Tibetan artistic identity over the last sixty years and create a visual, interconnected timeline of Tibetan people\u27s suffering and transformatio

A Research on the Comfort Properties of Linen Fabrics Subjected to Various Finishing Treatments

The study is aimed to investigate the thermophysiological comfort properties of shirt linen fabrics subjected to various finishing treatments such as enzymatic, softening and wrinkle-resistant treatments. After finishing treatments, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity, maximum heat flow, water vapor permeability, and air permeability measurements were carried out. All test results were evaluated statistically in terms of the effects of enzyme and treatment types. According to the findings, all finishing processes provided improvements on the thermal conductivity and thermal resistance values of the linen fabrics and caused higher thermal absorbtivity values and cooler feeling at the first touch to the fabric. The enzyme and treatment types had important effects on maximum heat flow. When the enzyme, softener, and crosslinker were applied to the fabric together, the highest water vapor permeability values were obtained. However, the finishing treatments affected air permeability values negatively due to the high shrinkage feature. As a result, the effects of mostly applied finishing processes on the thermophysiological comfort of shirt linen fabrics were found to be favorable especially for the usage in the summer season

A Research on the Comfort Properties of Linen Fabrics Subjected to Various Finishing Treatments

, EYLEN SEMA/0000-0002-2463-6885WOS: 000489194800001The study is aimed to investigate the thermophysiological comfort properties of shirt linen fabrics subjected to various finishing treatments such as enzymatic, softening and wrinkle-resistant treatments. After finishing treatments, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal absorbtivity, maximum heat flow, water vapor permeability, and air permeability measurements were carried out. All test results were evaluated statistically in terms of the effects of enzyme and treatment types. According to the findings, all finishing processes provided improvements on the thermal conductivity and thermal resistance values of the linen fabrics and caused higher thermal absorbtivity values and cooler feeling at the first touch to the fabric. the enzyme and treatment types had important effects on maximum heat flow. When the enzyme, softener, and crosslinker were applied to the fabric together, the highest water vapor permeability values were obtained. However, the finishing treatments affected air permeability values negatively due to the high shrinkage feature. As a result, the effects of mostly applied finishing processes on the thermophysiological comfort of shirt linen fabrics were found to be favorable especially for the usage in the summer season

PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES OF REGENERATED CELLULOSE FIBERS

WOS: 000285858300005Three generations of regenerated cellulose fibers, such as viscose, modal and lyocell fibers are among the most important fibers from the point of textile and environmental aspects due to the natural structures and properties. Different production process and production conditions for conventional viscose, modal and new lyocell fibers cause differences in the structure of the fibers in spite of the same chemical compositions. In this study, the structural properties of viscose, modal and lyocell fibers and yarns were investigated. Besides, the influence of structural characteristics of the fibers on the performance properties of knitted fabrics such as pilling, bursting strength, color efficiency and thermo physiological properties were determined. It was determined that due to the fiber structure, pilling tendency of viscose fabric is higher compared to lyocell and modal grey fabrics. Since the tensile strength of lyocell fiber is higher, fabric bursting strength of lyocell fabric is higher than the modal and viscose fabrics. As the thermal conductivity of lyocell fabric is higher, it gives cool feeling compared to viscose and modal fabrics. The highest colour efficiency is obtained from lyocell fabrics

Stochastic Modelling of Pilling Degree Changes During the Pilling Process of Wool Fabrics

As a fabric surface defect, pilling gives clothes an unpleasant appearance and is often characterized with small, complex clusters of fibers attaching to the surface of the garment caused by the fiber migration from yams to the fabric surface as the fabric rubs against itself, another fabric, or even the skin. In this study, a Markov chain model was built based on the pilling propensity of wool fabrics, evaluated with a scale ranging from 1 (severe pilling) to 5 (non-pilling). These degrees were defined as the state space of Markov chain. The numerical values of the transition probability matrix related to the pilling degrees were obtained by maximum likelihood estimation (MLE). Based on the matrix, it was intended to model the changes in the pilling process of woven wool fabrics. Furthermore, given that the fabric will eventually be in state 1, 2 or 3, accepted as unpleasant appearance; the conditional mean first passage times for any transient state to enter any recurrent state for the first time were determined

Thermo-physiological comfort properties of various shirt fabrics treated with conventional and nano sized water-oil repellent and wrinkle resistant agents

The extreme temperatures and humidity are quite disturbing climatic conditions and clothing is the only protective material in these cases. During the interactions of the human body, clothing, and the environment, to maintain thermal equilibrium, thermo physiological comfort is crucially important. In general, the thermo physiological comfort features of a fabric include thermal conductivity, thermal flow, thermal absorbtivity, thermal resistance, thickness, water vapor permeability and air permeability. In this study, 21 different kinds of woven shirt fabrics produced from fibers in various blends have been treated with both classical and nano chemicals in four different concentrations to produce fabrics having different water-oil repellent and wrinkle resistant characteristics. The effects of the fiber type, treatment method, chemical type, and chemical concentration on the thermal, water vapor and air permeability properties of the fabrics treated with various finishing processes were investigated by statistical analysis. The results of thermal related properties, air permeability and water vapor permeability of the fabrics confirmed that using cotton, lyocell, and viscose shirt fabrics treated with transfer method could be advantageous, especially in hot climatic regions.Research Foundation of Ege University [2006-MuH-053]The authors acknowledge the Research Foundation of Ege University for the financial support given to this study (Project number: 2006-MuH-053)

Seam Properties and Sewability of Crease Resistant Shirt Fabrics

WOS: 000396354200004The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of crease resistant treatment on sewability and seam properties of cotton shirt fabrics. The effects of the fabric construction (plain, twill, and satin weaves), the concentration of crease resistant chemical, and the stitch density were investigated in terms of seam quality and sewability. Seam efficiency was calculated and the appearance of seams and creases were evaluated using standard methods. Furthermore, the sewability of the fabrics was measured with an L&M sewability tester. The results were then statistically evaluated. It was found that crease resistant treatment improved the seam efficiency, sewability, and appearance of creases, whereas no positive effect on seam appearance was observed